John Brown has been a wine and food columnist in West Virginia since the 1980’s. His regular columns appear in the Charleston (WV) Gazette-Mail under the title Vines & Vittles.
WINEPICK: 2003 Monticello Crianza ($12)
Map of Rioja region of Spain from www.cellartours.com I have always been a fan of Rioja (pronounced Ree-OH-hah). It's a famous wine region in north-central Spain that produces red wine in a style similar to the more famous reds of Bordeaux. The connection with Bordeaux grew out of a vine disease which devastated those world-renowned French vineyards in the 1800's. Faced with having to completely replant their vineyards, many Bordelais ventured over the Pyrenees Mountains into Spain to grow grapes and make wine unaffected by the blight.
Settling in Rioja, the French passed along their wine-making techniques to the Spanish. While the grape varieties comprising Bordeaux red are completely different from the main Rioja grape (tempranillo), the Spanish vintners began adopting many of French viticultural practices, including using oak barrels to finish their wines. Today, the Rioja wine makers use French and American oak extensively to soften and age their wines.
The 2003 Monticello Crianza was aged in oak for 18 months. The government requirement for a wine to be called Crianza (which loosely translated means “age-ing of wine") is that it must be aged in oak for at least one year. The Monticello is round and richly flavored with hints of ripe cherries and anise, along with a toasty oak component which adds complexity to the wine. It is an excellent value, too! Pair it with cheeses such manchego or asiago or have it with grilled and marinated flank steak.
If you haven’t uncorked a bottle of Rioja red lately or ever , I highly recommend this wine for your sipping pleasure.
