Columns by John

John Brown has been a wine and food columnist in West Virginia since the 1980’s. His regular columns appear in the Charleston (WV) Gazette-Mail under the title Vines & Vittles.

Lemony Penne Rigate!

Taming my ravenous appetite is always a work in progress, but a chance glance at my profile in the hallway mirror made it clear to me that something must be done to reconfigure my …figure. Last time in this space, I mentioned my plan to switch from the heavier foods of winter to less hearty fare, and to accompany these meals with lighter styled wines.

So, rather than go cold turkey (I’m not a fan of turkey anyway), I’ve decided to gradually introduce lighter and more healthy foods into my daily meal regimen. I’ll also select less intense wines to accompany these meals. But hey, that doesn’t mean I can’t eat and drink well. As a matter of fact, the recipe I’m suggesting you try below is a perfect example. And either of the two white wines I’m recommending to accompany the meal will make the food and wine experience something special.

It may be surprising to you, but there are pasta dishes that are light, healthy and packed with delicious flavors too. Today’s recipe combines asparagus, lemon, parmigiano, bread crumbs, olive oil and white wine to sauce a light and filling penne rigate (pronounced Pen-neh Ree-gah-tay) pasta dish. Penne rigate has a tubular shape and is about one inch long with ridges while pasta simply called penne has a smooth surface. The advantage of penne rigate is that the ridges allow the sauce to adhere to it better.

And either of these two wines I’ve chosen to accompany the recipe can also serve as the bottle you sip with the meal.

2023 Fillaboa Albarino ( $28) From the Rias Baixas region in northern Spain, this crisp white has flavors of stone fruit with hints of citrus and herbs. It is refreshing and clean, with excellent acidity to balance the piquant notes of the lemony penne dish.

2024 Bisci Verdicchio de Matelica ($22) – This golden wine from central Italy has ripe green apple flavors with a mineral quality that also features light, tropical fruit nuances. Its subtle richness enhances and rounds out this citrusy pasta dish.

Albarino or Verdicchio pair perfectly with this dish 

Lemon Penne Rigate

Ingredients:
One pound of penne rigate
One pound of asparagus trimmed and sliced about ¼-inch thick
Three ounces of extra virgin olive oil
Four ounces of white wine
One quarter cup of chopped Italian parsley
One teaspoon lemon zest and 3 tablespoons of lemon juice 
One cup of grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese
One half cup of panko or bread crumbs
Salt and pepper to taste
One teaspoon of red pepper flakes (optional)
One-half cup of reserved pasta water

Preparation:
Cook one pound of penne rigate in salted water until al dente (save one cup of pasta water)
Add the asparagus to the pasta water two minutes before the penne is done
Transfer the cooked pasta and asparagus to a sauté pan
Mix the olive oil, lemon juice and zest, garlic and wine in a bowl and whisk
Add the mixture to the pan with the pasta and add the reserved pasta water
Mix the ingredients together in the sauté pan and cook at medium heat
Add half the parmesan along with the panko or bread crumbs and mix
Sprinkle salt and pepper to taste and serve, adding more cheese to each plate

*To honor the season of Ramson, I plan to garnish my lemon penne rigate with a few ramp leaves!

John Brown is also a novelist. His latest book – Augie’s Wine – has just been released and is now available to order online or at his website wordsbyjohnbrown.com. His first two books– Augie’s War and Augie’s World – are also available online and at bookstores around the state. You can find out more about his novels, and review all of his archived Vines & Vittles columns at wordsbyjohnbrown.com

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