Wild and Wonderful Culinary Tales

The 18th hole at Stonewall Resort in Roanoke, W.Va. Stonewall photo
Your traveling wino has been crisscrossing West-By-Golly, sampling the food and wine wares of some fine establishments. I can happily report that the state of sipping and supping is improving in these here hills. Today, I’m going to regale you with my experiences in two diverse culinary venues: a fine restaurant in Davis, W.Va., and Stonewall Resort in Roanoke, W.Va.

Starting in the wilds of Tucker County, my first stop was Davis. This is a town where the early 20th century architecture houses some very interesting nooks and crannies, including an establishment known as Mutley’s. What, you ask, is Mutley’s? A fine dining restaurant, of course. Mutley’s owner, Becky Bunner, along with Chef Randy Columbo are a great team of creative and slightly off-beat hosts who work hard to make sure you not only eat well, but also have fun.

Randy works his grilling magic in the kitchen of this century-old tavern (named after his dearly departed canine- Mutley). The menu features Angus beef steak such as filet, porterhouse and rib-eye, along with other grilled selections, including lamb chops, chicken, pork tenderloin and grilled breast of duck. They also have a $1-an-ounce steak night each Thursday (when it is wise to call for a reservation to 304-259-4858). Menu selections, which also include pasta dishes, are mostly priced under $20.

The night I was there, I opted for the marinated and grilled “Jerk” boneless and skinless chicken thighs. What a treat! I washed this repast down with a few glasses of the house pour – Yellow Tail Cabernet and Merlot. Okay, wine snobs, no tacky comments. I actually like the stuff. (Remember, I’m a home wine maker so my standards may be suspect). While Mutley’s wine selection is somewhat limited, it has the main red and white essentials with wines such as Beringer, Robert Mondavi, Raymond, Kenwood, Black Opal and Rodney Stong, to name a few labels you will recognize. Wine pricing is very reasonable and Mutley’s is one of the few West Virginiarestaurants I’m aware of that actually has invested in a wine temperature-control storage cabinet.

After dinner, I spent some time with the owners at the bar where you can sometimes find a life-like female mannequin as your seatmate. According to Randy, some fellows have been known to carry on long conversations with these Stepford Wives knock-offs in hopes of….what? Randy’s reply: “Winters can be long in Tucker County!”

Next on my whirlwind tasting tour was a visit to Stonewall Resort. Stonewall – that bastion of “New-South” cuisine under Chef Dale Hawkins– opened its public spaces recently to host the 4th annual “Culinary Classic." During the first night of the Classic, chefs from some of the state’s most prestigious restaurants and resorts prepared their specialties for more than 200 hungry and thirsty guests. Among the famished and parched that night was yours truly as I supped and sipped until my not inconsiderable appetites were sated. At this "Taste of West Virginia" dine-around, guests had the opportunity to sample signature dishes from each chef while enjoying a selection of specially chosen wines provided by the Country Vintner of West Virginia.

Those who stayed for Saturday’s activities were treated to culinary demonstrations conducted by guest chefs along with a luncheon of “tiny bites.” The evening festivities began with a Champagne reception followed by a multi-course food and wine dinner.

One of the exceptional wine selections that tickled my palate was the 2005 Tomassi Pinot Grigio Le Rosse ($14). From Northeastern Italy, this straw-colored beauty may surprise you with its supple and round flavors of ripe pear and melon. The Le Rosse single vineyard wine is produced in the normally red wine area of Valpolicella which may account for why its flavors are so much more intense than other Pinot Grigio’s. Unlike the majority of Pinot Grigio produced in northern Italy, this wine is a spicier, rounder version with more depth of flavor and yet still well balanced. This would be a wonderful accompaniment to linguine and mussels in a garlic and white wine sauce. Kudos to Stonewall Resort for hosting this superb event.