Argentinean Wines: On the Pampas with Evita and Gaucho Marx

"Don't cry for me Argentina!" That musical refrain comes to mind whenever I open one of the lovely wines from that mysterious country. This is a land where the vibrant wine industry is in its infancy, and where the political and economic conditions are as fragile as when Evita captured the hearts of the world 60 years ago.

Argentina has the largest Italian immigrant population of any country on the planet, which may explain the country's love of wine and food and also its whacky political system. The country is known for its world-class beef and it should therefore come as no surprise that the wine production is predominately red.

The major grape-growing provinces are located in the foothills of the Andes Mountains and are producing some exciting wines. You may be surprised by this, but the poor soils, irrigated mainly by snow melt and arid climate, are ideal for the production of fine wine in Argentina and throughout the world. Wine grapes flourish when they are forced to struggle for water and nutrients in the soil and in climates that are warm and dry. On the global wine scene, Argentina has only been a player for a decade or so, yet the wines, particularly the reds, have shown great promise and are slowly making their way onto shelves of wine shops in West Virginia.

Argentina is a very large country with the wine regions in the north on the same latitude as Morocco while the ones in the South are on a plane with New Zealand. Most of Argentina's grapes are grown at altitudes between 2000 and 3000 feet to take advantage of cooler temperatures.

The most prestigious wine province is Mendoza in the west-central part of the country on the border with Chile. Salta province in the north and the Rio Negro Valley in the south also produce wines, but most of the major wine production (80 percent) is located in Mendoza. The main grape varieties are Chardonnay, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Barbera, Tempranillo, and Bonarda. (By the way, Bonarda has its roots -- literally-- in Italy's Piedmont region and obviously was brought to Argentina by Italian immigrant wine makers).

One of the wines that Argentina is producing as a single varietal, and which had formerly been used only as a blending grape, is Malbec. Malbec is one of the five traditional grapes used to make Bordeaux, although it is seldom, if ever, used as the main varietal in the traditional Bordeaux blend.

In my opinion, Malbec is the signature grape of the nation since no other country has been able to coax as much flavor and quality out of the grape as Argentina. I recently tasted several Malbecs and a couple of white wines from Argentina that were very good to excellent and also offer tremendous value.

2005 Zamba Chardonnay ($10) - This is a very Macon-like Chardonnay (Macon is in southern Burgundy) with very delicate flavors with mineral undertones. This would pair nicely with broiled halibut in a beurre blanc sauce.

2006 Finca El Reposa Saint Jeannet ($10) - Saint Jeannet is an obscure Italian grape that is planted on 90-year-old vines and offers melon and citrus flavors and aromas of herbs. It would be an ideal accompaniment to chicken cordon-bleu.

2005 NQN Picada 15 ($12) - This is a blend of 80% Malbec, 10 % Pinot Noir and lesser amounts of Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Ripe and round with a bright berry flavors, this is a wine to have with roasted pork tenderloin.

2004 El Cipres Malbec ($10) - Lighter style Malbec with tobacco and leather aromas and cherry and cola flavors. Perfect with grilled hamburgers.

2003 Don Tiburcio ($16) - With 50% Malbec and the balance equal parts Cabernet, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, this is a rich and complex mouthful of wine with dark fruit flavors and aromas of vanilla and raisins. This baby is begging for marinated and grilled (boned and butter flied) leg of lamb.

2004 Finca El Reposo Malbec ($12) - Interesting tar-like aroma (attractive to me, maybe because it brings back fond memories of my days as a state highways worker) and ripe, almost sweet fruit flavors. Gotta have this one with barbecue ribs slathered in a sweet and hot sauce.

While the above-mentioned wines are excellent and great values, the gold standard for me as far as Argentinean wineries is Catena. Their Chardonnay ($20) is simply delicious and combines the best qualities of Napa and Burgundy - great full-bodied (but not overblown) flavors with crisp acidity. Their Malbec is also a great mouthful of wine.

Two other Argentina labels to look for are Salentein and El Portillo which produce wines of good quality and value.

P.S.: You've probably heard of the term 'gaucho' as in the 'Gauchos of the Pampas.' These guys were legendary Argentinean cowboys who literally invented roasting meat over wood fires centuries ago, among other less flattering, if apocryphal, stories of their exploits. One of America's most beloved comedians and film stars of the last century was said to have spent his early years as a Gaucho on the Pampas of Argentina before moving to Hollywood to seek fame and fortune in Tinsel Town. You probably didn't know that about Gaucho Marx.