John Brown has been a wine and food columnist in West Virginia since the 1980’s. His regular columns appear in the Charleston (WV) Gazette-Mail under the title Vines & Vittles.
A Port for the storm of winter
When the ambient air temperature descends below 40 degrees Fahrenheit, I seem to require foods and beverages of substance. Stews, soups, roasted meats and full flavored cheeses, such as Roquefort and Stilton, grace the table in my humble abode this time of year.
To accompany these hearty foods, I usually uncork full-bodied wines such as zinfandel, syrah or cabernet sauvignon and, to cap the meal off in style, a glass or two of Port with coffee, nuts or cheeses. While I have written about the glories of Port for you in this space before, it is winter and it just seems an appropriate time for me to visit this tasteful subject again.While our per capita consumption of table wine in this country has increased to a respectable level, the volume of Port (or any dessert wine for that matter) consumed in this nation is so small it could fit on a gnat’s eyelash!
In fact, most of us have an aversion to any sweet wine because of either (a) bad personal experiences, or (b) prejudicial views passed on down to us by uninformed know-it-alls who assert that “only dipsomaniacs or effete snobs drink Port.”
I’m still trying to forget the night (a few decades ago) I spent hovering over the “porcelain alter” after consuming an inordinate quantity of a sweet, high alcohol rocket fuel some low-rent winery had the nerve to call Port. I’m sure some of you have had similar experiences and have vowed never to let the vile stuff pass your lips again. And you shouldn’t!
But let me suggest that classifying Port and high alcohol, sweet wine as one and the same is like believing turpentine and chardonnay (both of which are white liquids having alcohol as a component) are also the same.
Port or Porto (as it is called in Portugal where it is produced) can be made from a variety of (unpronounceable) red grapes grown along the steep slopes of the Douro River. The river flows toward the town of Oporto where the wine is sold to shipping companies who age it, label it under their house name and then export it all over the world.
Port is fortified which means that brandy is added to the fermenting wine. This causes the fermentation to stop, leaving about 10 percent residual sugar in the wine and also boosting the alcohol to about 20 percent. While Port was produced in a mainly dry style for centuries, today’s sweet version was popularized by the British in the middle of the 18th century. Many Shippers are also British companies.
Since there are several styles of Port, here is a description of the most common types:
Vintage Port -This is the best and most expensive style and is produced in only about three years a decade. A “vintage year” is usually declared by an agreement among the shippers and the wines are given special care and aging. Once you buy it, vintage Port can age easily for 15 to 25 years before reaching full maturity. Recent vintage Port years are 1983, 1986, 1991 and 1992, 1994, 1997, 2000 and 2003.
Late Bottled Vintage Port - Not to be confused with vintage Port, this wine is a blend of Ports from different vineyards in the same vintage year. Late Bottled Vintage Port (or LBV) will have a vintage date on the label, but is not vintage Port. However, this wine is vinified in the same manner as vintage Port, except it is aged in barrel longer to accelerate their drinkablity.
Ruby Port - Young Port wine blends from several different vintages comprise Ruby Port. They are lighter and fruitier than other styles and usually the least expensive Ports.
Tawny Port – This is my favorite type of Port. I call this the poor man’s vintage Port because it is aged for many years in oak and, when released, it is very smooth and rich like an old vintage Port, though not as fine. I love the caramel flavors ofTawny Port.
White Port - Made from white grapes, this is the only Port-style wine that is dry. It is usually crisp, yet full-bodied, and makes a nice aperitif wine.
Some of the great Port producers to look for are: Warre’s, Graham’s, Taylor-Fladgate, Croft, Dow’s, Fonseca and Quinta do Noval. Prices for non-vintage Port typically range from $10 to $40 a bottle while newly released vintage Ports will cost anywhere from $40 to 150 each.
While true port comes from Portugal, America and Australia do a very nice job with Port-like wines. Look for Ficklin and Quaddy in the U.S. and Chateau Reynella and DeBortoli in Australia to provide good wines and excellent values. I particularly recommend Ficklin’s (10 year-old) Tawny.
