John Brown has been a wine and food columnist in West Virginia since the 1980’s. His regular columns appear in the Charleston (WV) Gazette-Mail under the title Vines & Vittles.
Watch WineBoy, Episode 12, John Brown's weekly off-the-wall four-minute webcast at thegazz.com/gazzTV, and learn some traditional -- and not so traditional -- food and wine pairings. He'll also recommend a really nice cabernet sauvignon. This week's special guest from Brown's Land of Id is cowboy oenophile Spud Dumplin, who shares "chuck wagon picks" for desert dining (does Shiraz go with fire-roasted Gila monster?).
Fall is upon us and with the cooler weather the number of indoor activities naturally increases. Consequently, there are a greater number of wine tastings, gourmet-wine dinners and other gastronomic events around our beautiful state. Whether you decide to stay close to home or travel, there are some nice events on the horizon for wine and food lovers in West Virginia. Check these out.
Bridgeport
Oct. 22: Provence Market's October Wine TastingIf you’re in the north-central WV area next week, you might stop by Provence Market Cafe for a tasting of some good Mountain State wine as Elaine and Alan Wolfe present their Jones Cabin Run Vineyards "Award Winning" selections on Monday, October 22. The tasting begins at 6 p.m.and costs $20 per person.
In case you didn’t know, Provence Market Café is an excellent restaurant with a Wine Spectator award winning wine list. You also might want to check out their annual Holiday Tasting which is scheduled for Monday, December 3rd. For further information on tastings or for dinner reservations call 304-848- 0911
Charleston
OCT. 22: Chefs with Golden Spoons DinnerIf you want to experience the best West Virginia’s culinary wizards have to offer, then consider attending the annual March of Dimes dinner and auction at Berry Hills Country Club on Monday Oct. 22, at 6:30 p.m. The dinner event will feature dishes donated by chefs from around the state, including those from Canaan Valley Resort, The Chop House, Edgewood and Berry Hills Country Clubs, Olgebay Resort, The Blossom, Snowshoe and several others. Attendees may bid for dinner packages in the chef’s restaurants, jewelry and weekend getaways. Tickets are $75 in advance and $100 at the door. Call 720-2229 for reservations. All proceeds from the event go to the March of Dimes.
NOV. 1: Science of Wine & Art of Food fundraiser
The 11th annual Science of Wine & Art of Food fundraiser by the Friends of the Clay Center takes place 6:30 p.m., Thursday, Nov. 1, at the Clay Center, featuring a five-course menu paired with wines of New Zealand and Australia. The menu will be prepared by the Clay Center's in-house caterer, Embassy Suites Hotel-Charleston and will feature assorted canapés of vegetables and gourmet cheeses; mussels a la mariniere; Autumn salad of mixed greens and poached pears; a mixed grill duo of lamb and venison; and almond tuile filled with vanilla mint mascarpone.
Silent and live auctions take place throughout the evening including trip to Sonoma, California; Alberta, Canada; and Hawaii, as well as such silent auctions for wine, gourmet food baskets, theater and sporting event tickets and more. Reservations are required by Friday, Oct. 26. Tickets cost $100 per person. Registration is available online at www.theclaycenter.org. Science of Wine & Art of Food is sponsored by Spilman, Thomas & Battle, PLLC, with additional support from BrickStreet Insurance, Commercial Insurance Services, Embassy Suites Hotel-Charleston and Warner Law Offices, PLLC.
NOV. 5: Capitol Market Wine and Cheese Shop
Maturity is certainly not one of WineBoy's personal attributes. But in episode 11 of John Brown's weekly wine webshow with attitude -- click here to watch -- he'll demonstrate the proper manner to evaluate and serve mature wines. Be sure to catch this latest webcast of Brown's part educational, part zany weekly four-minute show featuring his unique approach to all things wine. You'll want to pay particular attention to the advice of special guest and Wine Astrologist, the Marchrazi Umberto Lupini.
Coppola's "Director's Cut" Zinfandel is a perfect companion to the grilled pork chop recipe below With the arrival of fall, my thoughts turn to richer textured wines and fuller-flavored edibles, including all manner of grilled meat dishes that just seem to go so well with this time of year. But just as I began to plan a feast built around the above mentioned victuals, I visited my family doctor for an annual physical and a dose of reality.
Suffice it to say that his prescription for my continued well-being differs considerably from my own opinion of what is best for me. Hey, after all, I’m a devotee of Dr. Feelgood, whose idea of moderation includes being careful not to be so careful. Anyway, the dish I’m going to suggest to you today is really kind of healthy and it does include the liberal application of red wine (which we all know is important to cardiac health).
You know what makes WineBoy mad, really mad? Watch the webcast of WineBoy 9 by clicking here as host John Brown discusses the proper serving temperature of wine while lamenting how few restaurants - even the fancy-shmancy ones- pay attention to this very important aspect of wine appreciation. He'll also tell you about a very tasty Australian red with an Italian pedigree. Oh, and you'll love his interview with Pierre N'Cest Pas, a Frenchman with some strong opinions about American wine.
Over the past several months, I have had the pleasure of tasting a number of excellent wines for all things WineBoy, including this blog, the "WineBoy" webcast and the “Main Ingredient” column in the Sunday Gazette-Mail. You may have seen the reviews of a few of these wines in the Main Ingredient, but in case you haven’t, you might want to look for these lovelies at your favorite wine shop or grocery store. Enjoy.
2006 Groth from Napa Valley ($17): This beauty combines the herbal and grassy flavors one expects from sauvignon blanc with a richer texture and fuller feel that should pair exceptionally well with a pasta and asparagus dish with bits of pancetta or bacon.
As much as I try not to, I sometimes slip into 'winespeak' in describing the hues, smells and tastes of a wine that -- when the adjectives are stripped away -- is either good, OK, or unpleasant. People often ask me why wine writers feel compelled to go to such great lengths and use such “flowery” terms to describe the sensory aspects of wine. My short answer is that wine has such multi-dimensional qualities that it is limiting and not very helpful to use basic terms to describe it. (And besides, most wine writers get paid by the word).
This all came to mind the other day as I was trying to describe the attributes of a particularly good red wine (from the state of Apulia in Italy) known as Salice Salentino. The stuff was so pleasing to me that I was having difficulty describing it without becoming overly exuberant. However, I think there is a difference between using what I will call traditional language to describe wine versus using non-traditional terms. For example, if I describe a riesling as having ripe apple flavors, you will immediately use your own memory of the taste, smell and texture of ripe apples to understand how the wine might actually taste.
Show 7 of WineBoy, the informative, off-the-wall wine appreciation show of The Charleston Gazette is now online, featuring new show sponsor Blues BBQ Restaurant, right across from the Clay Center. Host John Brown takes on the question of the day: Why is it a good thing to air our your red wine?
Is it Real or is it Really Vito’s Thunder Mountain Chablis?New Yorker Magazine’s Patrick Radden Keefe in his “Reporter at Large” column recently explored the rarified world of collecting ancient bottles of wine (read article here). Specifically, Radden focused on bottles purchased at auction by multi-millionaire Bill Koch which were purported to be from Thomas Jefferson’s private collection and dated from the late 1700s. The column reads like a mystery novel and attempts to shed some light on the murky and imprecise science of verifying the true age of older wines, some of which are purchased at auction for hundreds of thousands of dollars. In this particular case, Mr. Koch goes to great lengths to prove (or disprove) the age of the wines he supposedly purchased from Jefferson’s stash.
In addition to real-life intrigue, the piece has a cast of characters that reads like a who’s who of the wine world, including Robert Parker, Michael Broadbent, Serena Sutcliffe and a whole host of other wine personages that only the wine-obsessed would recognize. Check it out.
In episode 6 of "WineBoy," host John Brown heads ups to Robert Wong's Bridge Road Bistro for a tasty pairing of wine and food. Executive chef Paco Aceves shares with Brown a chicken penne pasta dish from the Bistro's recently revised menu. Brown pairs it with a French red wine from a new wine list by general manager Amy Sue Gates. You'll be hungry before it's all over. And wait for those credits to roll...
In my hedonist’s mind, almost everything has a relationship to food and wine. In the summertime, my thoughts turn to cool refreshing white wines such as Sauvignon Blanc, Prosecco and Pinot Grigio, or spicy reds like Zinfandel, Syrah or Pinot Noir.
As far as food is concerned, to yours truly summertime means grilled foods or barbecue. Barbecue, though, means different things to different people. For some, it’s a verb as in: “I’m going to barbecue some hamburgers.” For others, barbecue is a noun and refers to a type of cooked pork or beef rib meat that is immersed in various sauces, chopped and served on a bun. Since I love to grill out, barbecue means a style of cooking to me. You’ll find just about every kind of food on my grill, including (but not limited to) pork, chicken, beef, lamb, fish, vegetables and sometimes even fruit.
In my estimation, barbecuing also requires a grill that uses “real” charcoal. Gas grills – no matter how fancy – simply do not measure up. The biggest problem with them is they don’t heat evenly, and it’s very difficult to add wood chips such as apple, mesquite or hickory to the fire. Using these chips or chunks adds a wonderful flavor dimension to grilled foods.
Plus, there is something compelling and almost ritualistic about setting charcoal on fire, and then using the coals to sear animal flesh or things that grow. I’m not sure I want know why this practice is so appealing to me - but it is. So, in the interest of making barbecue believers of you, I’m going to share a simple recipe for barbecued pork ribs that is easy to prepare and delicious to eat. I prefer to use baby back ribs that have been trimmed of excessive fat and scored with a fork.
Whether you use large slab ribs or baby backs, this recipe begins with a dry rub. What’s a dry rub? Well, first of all, let me assure you it does not require a masseuse. However, it does involve a massage – of the ribs with spices -that is. One of my favorite dry rubs consists of one tablespoon each of cumin, chili powder, kosher salt, coarsely ground black pepper, brown sugar and cayenne pepper (optional for those faint of heart). Stir this mixture and then rub it onto both sides of the ribs. If time permits, let the ribs sit in the refrigerator for a few hours allowing them to absorb the flavors.
At this point, I often grab a handful of hickory or apple wood chips (available at some grocery stores and home improvement stores such as Lowe’s and Home Depot) and immerse them in warm water and allow them to soak for at least half an hour. This is optional, but I think really gives the meat a great smoky flavor.
Now, fire up the charcoal and when the coals turn white/gray, move them to each corner of the grill, leaving space in the middle for the ribs to cook indirectly. Then add the wood chips to the charcoal. I have a large oblong, kettle-type grill which allows me to put about three slabs of ribs on the grill side by side. Make sure that the air vents on the grill are closed to about one-eighth of an inch. In this manner, you’ll be able to keep the temperature relatively cool – approximately 275 to 300 degrees F. Check the vents regularly to adjust the heat if necessary and turn the ribs once during grilling. It usually takes between 1 to 1 ½ hours to slow cook the ribs.
Once off the grill, I cut the ribs into bite-size pieces and then either serve them as is or immerse them in a tangy sauce.
WineBoy Recommends
Here’s one of my favorite barbecue sauces:
"WineBoy" episode 5 is now online-- click to watch. Host John Brown wraps up his introductory series, "The Five 'S' Words of Wine" with one that counts the most: 'Swallow.' The four-minute web show's setting includes John Crihfield's food stall at the Capitol Market, a wine recommendation from Down Under where they name their wines funny, as well as John Brown's signature off-the-basement-wall antics.
Watch for a new 'WineBoy' each Thursday morning online at thegazz.com (peek in Wednesday afternoon and it's likely to already be online). The next one -- online Sept. 4 -- features a Bridge Road Bistro wine and food pairing. Executive chef Paco Aceves shows off a new dish from the recently revised menu at owner Robert Wong's restaurant, paired with a white wine from a fresh new wine list by general manager Amy Sue Gates. You'll be both thirsty and hungry after viewing.
John Brown's grandparents, Saverio and Catarina Iaquinta, are seen at center above in this photo from the couple's 50th wedding anniversaryA friend recently asked how I came to be such a fanatic about wine. Good question and I get it often, especially now that I have a wine blog and "WineBoy" weekly podcast. As a matter of fact, I did a little self analysis on that question years ago and I think I’ll share it with you right here and now.
When I was growing up in the 1950s and ‘60s, I had the privilege of being raised in a culture distinctly different from most of my contemporaries of that time, and light years away from how kids grow up today. Back in those times, my world almost exclusively revolved around home and family. My mother was Italian and my father was Irish, but since I was raised with my mother’s family, it was the Italian influence and ethnicity into which I was absorbed. My maternal grandparents were both immigrants who spoke heavily accented English and who provided their nine children and 23 grand children with the elements of Italian culture and values that have molded our extended families to this day.
We've reached Episode 4 in the WineBoy webcast series "The Five 'S' Words of Wine.'" In this one you finally get to -- 'S' word! -- sip. John Brown also serves up an affordable and classy Chardonay recommendation plus his signature off-the-wall, free association commentary. To view prior episodes:Episode 3: 'Sniff'Episode 2: 'Swirl'Episode 1: 'Sight'
If you haven't yet seen my alter-ego on the big screen, you need to tune in by clicking on the WineBoy webcast list below. This is the fourth in a series of five shows dealing with the five S's of wine appreciation. So far, I've told you about Sight, Swirl, Sniff and now Sip (my favorite) and next week we'll feature the last "S" swallow. The webcasts feature about two-thirds wine education and one-third complete and utter foolishness from the depths of my diseased brain.
On this episode four, I'm recommending you try a lovely and inexpensive chardonnay. In the past three episodes, I've also recommended specific wine for your drinking pleasure. You'll have to view the webcasts to find out. Let me know what you think about WineBoy and how we can improve these little vino-vignettes for you.
I am convinced that a great number people who would like to enjoy wine with everyday meals are discouraged from doing so by a concern for both prudence and moderation. Prudence dictates that one should not be profligate and purchase a perishable (and sometimes expensive) product that cannot be consumed before it goes bad, while moderation demands that we drink alcoholic beverages responsibly.
So here’s the paradoxical question: how can you drink wine in a responsible manner everyday without wasting the majority of an oftentimes expensive bottle? In other words, how do we preserve the freshness and drinkability of wine over several days once it has been opened?
The International Pinot Noir Celebration event I attended a couple weeks ago was a marvelous exploration of Oregon wine, the region’s wonderfully fresh produce and the various meats and seafood harvested from the area’s woods and waters.
The event was held at Linfield College – a small institution located in an idyllic setting in McMinnville, Ore., which was wine central for Oregon pinot noir that weekend and hosted the many alfresco lunches, tastings and dinners. My wife and I stayed at the lovely and romantic Mattey House B&B (503-434-5058) situated on a seven-acre farm and vineyard outside McMinnville. We were hosted by Jack and Denise Seeds, the wonderfully accommodating owners, who demonstrated an almost encyclopedic knowledge of the Willamette Valley’s wines, wineries and people.
Click here to view the debut of 'WineBoy, a new weekly 5-minute gazzTV web show hosted by gazz wine blogger John Brown. “WineBoy” is what some friends tagged him as he came to be known as a wine expert. Each five-minute episode features a mix of serious, sometimes silly webcasting on the art of wine along with wine recommendations from local retail outlets. This first episode is part one of a five-part series on “The Five ‘S’ Words of Wine,” beginning with “sight.”
I had never been to the Oregon wine country. So this past spring as I searched the internet for “Oregon wine events,” the International Pinot Noir Celebration (IPNC) popped up and, after reviewing the program, I immediately registered for what turned out to be a spectacular wine and food extravaganza.
I’ve had the pleasure of visiting some of the world’s most heralded wine regions but, until last week, I had never ventured to Oregon’s Willamette Valley where the pinot noir produced there is considered among the best being made anywhere. While superb wine and food was the centerpiece of this educational weekend, Oregon is also a feast for the eyes with incredible natural beauty that actually rivals our own right here in “West By Golly.”
A NOTE FROM thte DIGITAL DESK OF DOUGLAS IMBROGNO, editor of thegazz.com:
A wine glass and computer is a good image for this announcement: You can now catch John Brown's wine advice on his new web TV show at thegazz.com called "WineBoy." Find the show at: media.cnpapers.com/wineboy1. "WineBoy" is what some friends have called Brown (along with some other names) as he has come to be known as a wine expert.
