The Whites of Spring

Photo (at right): Arneis, which is produced in the Piedmont region of Italy, is a crisp white with green apple flavors and a sprightly touch of fizz A note to “Red Wine Nation:” White wines are good and getting better!

I feel the need to make this declarative statement because there is a growing sentiment among some wine drinkers (mostly those who are new to the fold) that white wine is an inferior product and, except for the occasional bottle of chardonnay, is not to be considered seriously.

Those of you who read my words on wine know that I will never tell you what you should drink. If you want to match that hunk of filet mignon with a jug of Vito’s Thunder Mountain Red, so be it. However, if you think Vito’s elixir has no peer, you might want to buy a bottle of witch hazel which is probably slightly better. The point is: if you think you’ve found wine Nirvana, you haven’t because there are always pleasant surprises to be discovered in the world of wine.

That’s why I get upset when someone claims to be a “red wine only” advocate. For instance, these folks are happy to slurp down a bottle of full-bodied, high alcohol, young California cabernet sauvignon (without food ) as a pre- dinner cocktail. They revel in their “trophy” wines and rationalize their overindulgence by proclaiming the healthful effects of drinking red wine (their credo: if a little bit of red wine is good for you, then a lot of it must be even better).

Health issues aside, if you’re limiting yourself to just red – or just white – or just cabernet… well, you’re missing out on one of the most important, enjoyable and enlightening aspects of wine appreciation: the exploration and discovery of new wines.

For example, I recently had the delightful pleasure of sipping a glass of Torrontes, a white wine from Argentina which is now slowly making its way to the US and will be in our fair state in the near future.

For me, Torrontes is kind of like a cross between viognier, muscat and sauvignon blanc. It has peach, herbs and mineral flavors and a good balance between fruit and acid, making it a nice accompaniment to oriental dishes and spicy foods.

You might also look for Arneis, which is produced in the Piedmont region of Italy and is a crisp white with green apple flavors and a sprightly touch of fizz on the finish. Plainly cooked seafood is a superb match for this wine.

Another white worth seeking out is semillon (pronounced semi-on). Made famous as the most expensive sweet wine on earth (Chateau d’yquem), most semillon is made as a dry table wine.

L’Ecole No.41 Semillon from Washington State is one of my favorites. It’s a lovely, crisp, yet rich white that exhibits a stony, mineral nuance and round flavors of peach and figs. Try it with chicken breasts stuffed with sun dried tomatoes and gruyere cheese.

Earlier this month, I conducted a tasting which I called the “The Whites of Spring.” With warmer weather making its appearance, I usually opt for wines – either white or red – that are lighter. It just seems to fit this time of year. I selected these particular wines to demonstrate the wide variety of excellent whites available in West Virginia. Here are a few for your consideration.

2006 Beringer Gewurztraminer ($9) - This Gewurztraminer’s delicate balance of spicy aromas and floral and citrus flavors is enhanced by a long, cool fermentation. Try it as a porch sipper with cheese and fruit or with Thai food. 2006 Martín Códax Albariño $(11) -Albarino from Spain is terrific white that exudes richness, yet it is crisp with flavors of melon and herbs with an underlying minerality. Kind of like sauvignon blanc without the grassiness. Great with lemon sole.

2007 The Crossings Sauvignon Blanc ($17) – This wine from New Zealand (photo at right) fairly bursts on the palate with a refreshing zing! What’s a zing? Well, I guess you could say it’s beyond fresh and crisp with ripe citrus and melon flavors that excite the palate. Pasta dressed in a pesto comprised of basil, extra virgin olive oil, garlic, parmigiano reggiano and pine nuts would provide the perfect match for The Crossings.