When I first started writing about wine for the Charleston newspapers a few decades ago, my goal was to educate folks that wine should be an everyday accompaniment to meals.

Unfortunately, back then, the prevailing view of most beer-swilling and cocktail-imbibing Americans was that wine was an elitist product only consumed by ascot wearing, Hugh Hefner look-alikes with fake British accents.

It was my ardent goal to change that ubiquitous view. To poke fun at those widely held stereotypes, I created a mythical tasting panel comprised of people who were qualified in evaluating a certain category of wine. I named the group “The Southside Bridge Tasting Club,” and they were to evaluate wines for that segment of the wine drinking public that was — how shall I put it — more plebian in their tastes.

The group would gather monthly in the dead of night under the great bridge to sip and then critique various product specific wines of the time such as White Pheasant, Vito’s Thunder Mountain Chablis, Wild Irish Rose and many other popular octane-enhanced beverages. These wines had to meet only one condition: they must have screw caps so tasters would have quick and easy access to them.

Well, here we are 40 years later and, while wine is now socially accepted by just about every demographic group, there is still a controversy over which is the better wine bottle closure: corks or screw caps?

There’ a nip in the air, multi-colored leaves are falling from the trees and football is back! It’s officially autumn, and I’m ready for a hearty dinner with full-bodied wine to celebrate my favorite time of the year. And so, with Columbus Day also coming up in about a week, I’m going to recommend two Italian wines to accompany the recipe I’ve provided you below.

The Columbus Day holiday has been widely critiqued for the cavalier manner and heavy-handed actions of the explorer for whom the holiday is named. And Christopher Columbus does deserve criticism. He was, at best, directionally challenged. Here’s a guy who traveled west to find a quicker route to the east and ended up discovering North…. America. But he did introduce our continent to the lovely taste of Italian wine.

Most of you probably know about Italy’s Tuscan wine appellation. The region is noted for producing Chianti and Brunello di Montalcino, both of which are made from the ubiquitous local grape, sangiovese. However, the Tuscan wines I’m suggesting to accompany the recipe below lean heavily on a blend of Bordeaux-style grapes.

The primary grapes used in this blend are cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc and even syrah – or some combination of them all. Some of the blends include small amounts of sangiovese, but the resulting wine is fuller-bodied and more age-worthy than most other Tuscan red wines. Legendary wine critic, Robert Parker, called the wine a “Super Tuscan,” and the term stuck.

Acceptance by the Italian government of the non-traditional blend that comprises a Super Tuscan came only after years of wrangling. The government did not prohibit wineries from using different grapes (like cabernet or merlot) than those approved for a specific Italian region, but the resulting wine had to be labeled as “vino de tavola” or table wine. That designation was viewed by the Super Tuscan winemakers as indicating that the wine in the bottle was simple and ordinary, and they insisted on a new label classification.

During winters when I was growing up in the Northview section of Clarksburg, I remember being forced to eat food I thought had been grown in tin cans. When I refused to eat the limp and tasteless vegetables and fruit that oozed from these metal containers, I was required to sit at the dinner table until I relented, and choked down a forkful of the despicable stuff.

I suppose there was some sort of nutritional benefit to consuming canned veggies and fruit back then, but I would have preferred starvation, a paddling from Dad or even being whacked on the knuckles again by Sister Grimalda for talking during class at St. James Grade School – a medieval, penal institution where I served more time in detention than in the classroom.

But summertime was a different story because all the adults in my Italian American family had vegetable gardens and fruit trees. None of my twenty or so first cousins – or I – had to be forced to eat freshly grown family produce. But we preferred to poach the cherries, tomatoes or apples from the vines and trees my family members so lovingly tended, and then had to protect from the horde of hungry and larcenous kids who would not wait for the bounty to ripen.

Kids today, though, don’t have to eat anything from a can – even in winter. With internationally transported fruits and veggies available year-round, the only thing worth consuming from a can now is a cold beverage. And with everything currently at peak harvest in our neck of the woods, there is no better time than now to enjoy the cornucopia of freshly grown edibles. So today, I’m going to provide you with a recipe that takes advantage of many of these fresh and abundant vegetables.

Teala (pronounced Tea-aa-lah) is an Italian vegetable casserole that is a spicy, delicious, one-pot, no-meat meal that is taken to another level with an accompanying bottle of wine. And Teala is an equal opportunity dish when it comes to wine since it pairs equally well with both reds and whites. If I’m using a red wine to accompany Teala, I prefer to sip light to medium-bodied bottles such as Valpolicella or Barbera.

When I was a teenager and knew everything there was to know about life, my father, in an attempt to enlighten me said, “Son, life is like an onion, there’s a lot of layers to it, and sometimes it will bring a tear to your eye, but you’ll be a wise man if you just keep on peeling.”

I just looked up at my dad with a blank stare and thought to myself: what the hell is he talking about? Of course, I didn’t verbalize what I was thinking. I simply nodded and continued to bungle my way through a decade of dissipation. And soon thereafter, I realized that I had just peeled back a layer of that onion and I wasn’t at all pleased with what I was seeing. I could only hope the next layer would reveal a wiser man.

I know what you’re thinking: ‘where the heck is HE going with this, and what does it have to do with wine?’

Hey, you’ll just have to be patient with me because I’m about to peel back another layer! And this layer reveals an undeniable truth: enjoying wine involves a fairly simple process. All you need to do to is put the wine in your mouth. If that simple experience is pleasant, then you’re probably happy. But to really get the maximum pleasure out of wine, you will need to peel back a little more of the onion.

That means finding the attributes that make exceptional wine, and that process is not simple. It’s complex and it can be challenging, but it’s also a lot of fun. I’m talking about searching for and finding wine that is more than just a pleasant quaff. A bottle that has unique and pleasing aromas, beautiful color and clarity, and one that also features incredible layers of flavor. The search for and discovery of such a bottle is the essence of wine appreciation. And while the journey may be long, it’s always pleasurable and extremely educational. Today’s primer will involve ways of finding the best possible red wine.

Summertime has come early this year with an extended period of San Diego -like weather, featuring warm temperatures, low humidity and cool nights. As a result, I transitioned earlier than normal from the full-bodied wines of winter to lighter and more refreshing whites and reds that are better suited to warmer weather. Likewise, my food choices have also morphed from heavier, protein-centric dishes to lighter vegetable and fruit enhanced meals.

Today, I’ll share a recipe with you for a summertime pasta dish that is light and healthy. It’s also delicious when accompanied by either of the two Italian white wines I’m recommending as pairing partners. And while each of the wines is made with different grapes, grown in distinctly diverse regions of the country, each bottle pairs exceptionally well with the pasta dish.

While Italian cuisine is considered world-class, the ingredients used to create dishes are simple and mainly local and farm fresh. Unlike French cuisine, which relies heavily on the addition of cream, butter and animal fat, Italian food is lighter and healthier. The main source of fat used to cook Italian dishes is olive oil which is universally considered healthy by medical experts. And when Italians do consume saturated fats -like cheese, prosciutto and sausage, – they do so in moderation, and then they sip a glass or two of wine to de-clog their arteries.

As a Magna cum Laude graduate of Whatsamata U, my credentials as a certified expert on all things Italian is beyond reproach. Well, that may be a bit of an exaggeration, but I have memorized every legendary line in the “Godfather” movies, and I do know a thing or two about Italian wine and food. So today, I’m gonna make you ‘an offer you can’t refuse.’ The following recipe, along with complementary wine pairing recommendations, is the offer you won’t want to refuse.

Vino e Pasta

The California wine industry got its start when Father Junipero Serra planted grape seeds at his San Juan Capistrano mission in 1769 near what is now San Diego. The string of Franciscan missions reached northern California nearly one hundred years later where the first commercial winery in the state – Buena Vista – was established in the town of Sonoma.

The wine industry in California has grown to nearly 3000 wineries and represents more than 80 percent of all wine produced in the United States. If California was a separate country, it would be the fourth largest wine producer in the world. Despite these impressive statistics, widespread acceptance and appreciation of California wine was a long time coming. In fact, through the first 75 years of the 20th Century, California wine received little recognition outside of the United States.

It was an event that took place forty-seven years ago in Europe that first focused attention on wine from the Golden State. The event, which came to be known as the “Judgement of Paris, was a wine tasting held on May 24, 1976, and every wine lover on this side of the Atlantic should celebrate that date. The consequences of that tasting for the California wine industry would prove to be monumentally important.

The tasting was the brainchild of Steven Spurrier, an Englishman who owned a wine shop in Paris called La Cave de la Madeleine. Spurrier also operated a wine school whose six-week courses were regularly attended by French oenophiles, chefs and sommeliers. Over the years, Spurrier developed a close relationship with winemakers in Bordeaux and Burgundy. However, unlike most European wine experts, Spurrier recognized the potential quality of California wines, particularly the ones being produced in Napa Valley.

As a justification for inviting the California wineries to compete in the tasting, Spurrier cited the American bicentennial. He had organized the event and he invited an expert, all-French, wine tasting panel consisting of some of that country’s most famous sommeliers and restauranteurs. To rule out any home-cooking, this was to be a blind tasting and none of the judges would be able to see the labels. At that time, the French didn’t consider any country’s wines to be the equal of what was being made in France, and they scoffed at any suggestion that American bottles would stand a chance.

It’s the end of April and, like many other mountain state residents this time of year, I’m excited to sample the latest crop of allium tricoccum – more commonly known as ramps. You can count me among those who have waited impatiently for the little buggers to peek out of the forest floor. For weeks now, I’ve checked my own special mountain ramp patch for the green shoots (resembling the leaves on scallions) that signal their arrival. Finally, they appeared, and I spent an hour last week digging them out of the ground– one by one – until I had what we refer to as a “mess” of the odiferous lilies.

There are any number of ramp feeds around the state now, and you’ll have ample opportunities to sample menus featuring them. However, most of the cooks at ramp festivals smother the flavor of these wild leeks by adding them to dishes like pinto beans or fried potatoes. I suppose ramps do add a distinct flavor component to bean or potato casseroles, but the true flavor of these delectable veggies is too faint when they’re buried under an avalanche of carbohydrates.

I’m not suggesting that you eat uncooked ramps– although that was how I first consumed them. I was still living at home when, late one night, a friend came into the kitchen with a mess of ramps and 12-pack of Carling Black Label. After shaking the dirt off the ramps and rinsing them in cold water, we proceeded to sprinkle them with salt and eat them raw, chasing them with the Black Label.

When my mother came to wake me the next morning, she was wearing my grandfather’s World War I gas mask and carrying an industrial size can of Lysol. She was not amused. If you ever do decide to eat them right out of the ground, make sure the people who live within a mile of you have fair warning. This is to prevent them from losing consciousness or from reporting you to the EPA.

I now prefer to eat my ramps cooked. I like to spark up whatever comprises the main dinner course with the little devils, and I especially love to douse them with olive oil, salt and pepper, and then grill them over low to medium heat. Prepared in this manner, they lose much of their pungency, and they become a delicious accompaniment to any grilled meat, vegetable or seafood dish.

I am always fascinated by how we make choices regarding the wines we purchase and drink. Whether for everyday consumption or for special occasions, we can all agree that quality wines are worth seeking out. I spend an inordinate amount of time perusing the shelves of beverage shops, surfing the internet and reading food and wine magazines all in the quest to find that next bottle of liquid bliss. But casting hyperbole aside, I’m really not searching for the perfect bottle of wine. Just one that tickles my taste buds and doesn’t break my piggy bank.

Those of you who faithfully read my ramblings (thank you, by the way) know that I am also looking for wines that offer value as well as quality. When I first fell in love with the fruit of the vine – not long after dinosaurs roamed the planet- it was easy to despair of the notion that you could find good wine at reasonable prices. And, yes, there are still stratospherically priced wines that seem to defy conventional economics, especially ones from old world places like Burgundy or Bordeaux. And there are several California wines that have been granted (not sure by whom) “iconic” status and can fetch upwards of a thousand dollars a bottle – or more.

But, brothers and sisters, let me loudly declare this from my wine-stained pulpit: there has never been a time like now to find good wine at reasonable prices. You just have to do your homework! And that involves sorting through all the vinous clutter out there to find the good stuff. Today, we’ll explore a few ways to make your homework assignment easier.

First, you might check out wine regions that are less well known, but which offer good tasting value wines. For example, instead of looking for wines made in the highly regarded Napa Valley, consider varietals from lesser-known regions of California such as Lake County, Paso Robles, or Lodi. The same goes for wines produced in the most sought after foreign wine appellations. Instead of looking for bottles from Bordeaux or Burgundy, consider other French wines like ones from the southern Rhone Valley or Languedoc -Roussillon.

You can also find tasty wines with modest pricing by switching from well known varietals like cabernet sauvignon to reds like sangiovese, petit sirah or cabernet franc. The same goes for trendy whites like chardonnay. You might consider trying wines such as sauvignon blanc from New Zealand, Alberino from Spain or Verdicchio from Italy. And forget about pricey Champagne. Instead, search for pleasing bargain sparklers like Prosecco (Italy), Cava (Spain) or Crémant (Alsace in France).

I was all set to present you with a scrumptious wintertime meal recipe, and suggest some tasty wines to accompany this heavy, full-flavored dish. But the February weather hasn’t cooperated, and that’s a good thing because, unlike most rational folks, once I get that hankering to cook outside, I don’t ever let snow, wind or rain interfere with my decision.

So with this month’s balmy weather, I decided to leap forward to spring, summer and fall (also known as grilling season) to fire up my trusty old Weber Performer grill. And today, I’m going to provide you with a simple dry rub recipe that will transform any slab of beef, pork or chicken into a culinary masterpiece. It’s also delicious rubbed on salmon filets. And it works well on just about every cut of meat from prime to not so prime.

However, I am very particular where I shop for meat and seafood. I believe that even good meat can be (excuse the phrase) butchered by an inexperienced or oafish meat cutter. Here in Charleston, we are fortunate to have access to the highest quality meats and seafood you’ll find anywhere in our Wild and Wonderful state.

General Steak and Seafood Market on Quarrier Street is my go-to stop for edible protein. Their beef, veal, pork, lamb, chicken and seafood selections are hand cut right before your eyes. Buzz Food Service provides the professionally butchered meats as well as providing the seafood straight from the ocean. And Robin Harman in the shop puts the finishing touches on the meat selections you buy. Same goes for the myriad fresh seafood selections where several talented fishmongers (afishianotos?) will gladly filet your choice of sea creatures.

I had the pleasure of buying a couple of prime beef tenderloin steaks at General Seafood which I used to grill for my lovely wife and I on Valentine’s Day. But remember, this spice rub works as well on hamburgers, pork tenderloin, chuck steak, pork chops, or seafood too. I call it Hub Bub Rub and here is the recipe: Two parts of light brown sugar to one part each of smoked paprika and kosher salt (or our own local salt from J.Q. Dickinson Salt Works).

After a two-year pandemic-induced hiatus, Feastivall, that hedonistic gala that features a wine vs beer throwdown, will once again welcome a packed house of hungry and thirsty gourmands to Berry Hills Country Club on Saturday, February18.

Feastivall, of course, is a fundraiser supporting Festivall – the multi-week entertainment event that brings a plethora of talented musical artists to the greater Charleston area each summer. It’s always gratifying to observe the positive effect our contributions make to the community in which we live. But Feastivall is also a good old fashion beverage rumble pitting wine versus beer in a five-course gourmet meal. And attendees will have the opportunity to vote on the best accompaniment (wine or beer) for each course prepared by local guest chefs.

The event will begin at 6 p.m. with a wine and beer aperitif bar where guests can sip, mingle and bid on items at the silent auction, including works of art, as well as restaurant packages, travel opportunities, and other gifts. The evening will also feature musical performances by local artists. If you’re interested in attending, cost is $125 a person. However, the event always sells out quickly so you might want to sign up right away. Get your tickets by going to: http://festivallcharleston.com/ or by calling 304-470-0489.

Guests will enjoy five courses, each paired with a craft beer selected by (misguided) beer geeks Charles Bockway and Erin McCoy. Of course, yours truly, assisted by Amanda Karpeuk of Mountain State Beverage, selected the wines which come from Germany, Spain, California, Washington State and Italy. I’m sure our opponents for Feastivall will soon reveal their frosty pairings for the dinner, but I can’t imagine that lesser liquid (beer) will be able to compete with the most food-friendly beverage (wine) man has ever produced.

As a card-carrying member of LOG (Laggards of America), I am fanatically dedicated to the practice of procrastination. I almost never do today what I can put off until… later.

Well, it’s later now, and with Christmas only a week away, I’m motivated to find gifts for the people who have patiently tolerated my imperfections for the past twelve months. And, of course, the gifts I will bestow on friends and family will be either wine or wine accoutrements (i.e., “stuff”). So, in the Spirit of the Season, you may joyfully read on for my fine wine -and wine-related – suggestions you might consider gifting to those special people in your life.

I’ll start with some non-liquid gift ideas that should enhance the enjoyment and appreciation of wine.

Wine Books:  The Oxford Companion to Wine ($36) by Janice Robinson and The World Atlas of  Wine  ($37) by Janice Robinson and Hugh Johnson are the two most comprehensive compendiums of wine information you will ever read. They are the ultimate reference guides to anything to do with the liquid we all love. You can find them at local bookstores or online at Amazon.

Wine Stemware: The aesthetics of sipping wine in crystal is oftentimes a very expensive proposition, but it’s nice to occasionally break out (probably not the best choice of words) the special stemware for that celebratory event. Riedel, Schott Zweise and Spiegelau are probably the best options for fine crystal. You can find them at wine shops, department stores and online. I recently purchased Riedel Veritas Wine Glasses (a set of four tasting glasses) at Amazon ($159). These glasses are dishwasher safe, and you can select from several styles and shapes.

I love Thanksgiving dinner! It is my favorite holiday meal of the year because it’s a wine lover’s dream come true. The versatility of preparation methods for turkey, along with the various delectable courses and side dishes in the meal, present a culinary extravaganza where there are almost limitless wine pairing opportunities.

The reason is the “National Bird” is blessed with meat that has different flavors, colors and textures which pair seamlessly with a variety of medium to full-bodied white or red wines. Add to this the way the bird is cooked – from traditional oven baking to deep frying, to grilling, to smoking -and you have even more wine choices from which to select.

For the traditional oven baked turkey with an herb seasoned dressing, I suggest opening a light to medium bodied white wine such as a Spanish verdejo, California sauvignon blanc or a steely chardonnay like Chablis. For reds with this type of turkey preparation and dressing, try pairing the just released Beaujolais Nouveau from France, a Chianti Classico from Italy, or a Rioja from Spain. You might also be surprised to know that older reds, such as aged claret from Bordeaux, Brunello Di Montalcino from Tuscany, or cabernet sauvignon from Napa, go nicely as well. However, if you choose to smoke or charcoal grill the turkey, I suggest pairing this spicy, smoky meal with pinot noir from Oregon, zinfandel from California or an Amarone from Italy. And if you’re a white wine drinker, I’ve also successfully paired a full-flavored Alsatian riesling successfully with grilled turkey.
Here’s what I plan to do this year.

Turkey: I’ll brine a 15 -pound turkey overnight in a mixture of kosher salt, brown sugar, water, apple cider and beer, I’ll grill it over a covered charcoal grill for two hours. Then I’ll transfer the turkey to the oven and bake it at 325 degrees Fahrenheit for another hour and a half- or until the internal temperature reaches 165 degrees.

Obsessed as I am with eating and drinking well, I make a conscious effort to not only pair wine with the food I consume, but also to match these pairings with the seasons of the year. You would think the occasional sideways glance in a full -length mirror would disabuse me of this obsessive tendency, but it does not. Right now, the daily recipes at Chez Brown are morphing from the warm weather, lighter-type meals of summer to the heartier fare of fall. So, the white and red wines I choose to pair with autumn meals are necessarily fuller bodied – kind of like me!

Soups and stews are among the most desirable transition foods to experience in autumn, and good, old American chili tops my list of fall culinary delights. While many folks prefer beer as the go-to beverage for chili, I’m going to suggest that you consider wine to accompany this spicy, vegetable and meat concoction, especially when you pair it with my own recipe below. As a matter of fact, chili is the reason I started writing about wine. Confused? Let me explain

Back in 1981, I won the state chili cookoff at Snowshoe and then represented West Virginia at the World Chili Championship in Los Angeles. I also convinced some friends to join my wife and I in LA where we all had a great time (from what I remember), but, not surprisingly, my chili didn’t win. Afterward, we rented a van and spent the next week touring the wine country of Napa and Sonoma where we tasted at some of the greatest wineries in California. When I returned to Charleston, I happened to mention to Daily Mail city editor (at the time) Sam Hindman that the paper should have someone write about wine and the nascent wine industry. Sam suggested that I do it, and the rest, as they say, is history.

In addition to the chili that I prepared at Hollywood Race Track that day, there were also awards for categories like unique costumes, best decorated booths and most clever skits. Our group decided to do a short skit entitled: Hillbilly Chili – The Real McCoy.” Based on the hit TV show of the time, “The Real McCoy’s,” I’m ashamed to admit we looked like moonshiners dressed in bib overalls and wearing pointy hats. We even blacked out our teeth to further solidify the stereotypical view all outsiders had about West Virginians. Mea Culpa!

So, what wines pair well with chili? I generally use medium to full-bodied reds such as zinfandel, Cotes du Rhone or Valpolicella. You might try these: Terra d’Oro Zinfandel; Saint Cosme Cotes du Rhone; and Allegrini Valpolicella Classico. I also recommend sparkling wines with chili because their refreshing and thirst -quenching qualities present a nice counterpoint to this spicy dish. Here are a few sparklers that work well: Segura Viudas Cava from Spain; Gruet Blanc De Blancs from New Mexico; and Saint-Hilaire from France. All the wines listed above are priced under $30 a bottle.

I came of age during a time when beer was… well… just beer. Oftentimes, the suds were chased with a shot glass full of cheap hootch. Heck, if you ever wanted something other than cold, yellow, pilsner in my neighborhood, you had to wait until Christmastime when a regional brewer produced something called “Old Frothingslosh.” One of the taglines in the commercials for Old Frothingslosh read: “A whale of an ale for the pale, stale, male.” Another one read: “A beer so light the foam is on the bottom.”

Aside from unconventional (and apocryphal) brews like Old Frothingslosh, beer remained predictable (and boring) in this country with most of the suds mass-produced by large industrial type breweries. That is, until the past couple of decades when enterprising beer lovers re-invented the business by creating a new category of products called craft brews.

Since then, craft breweries have sprung up in great numbers all over the US with more than 25 such businesses now operating in West Virginia. These new businesses have taken beer to a whole new level by qualitatively improving traditional brews like pilsners, stouts and ales, and by developing unique products using non-traditional ingredients such as fruits and herbs.

Okay, you’re probably thinking: why is this wineaux (that’s French for wino) spending so much time on beer? Well, I have confession to make, I actually like beer, especially the stuff being made by West Virginia craft breweries such as Stumptown Ales in Davis and Weathered Ground in Ghent. But, let me be clear, I do prefer the taste of wine over beer, particularly when it comes to pairing either beverage with food. However, I must give credit where credit is due. Simply stated, the wine industry is stagnant and seems content to appeal to those of us who are predominately long in the tooth.